Our Climbing Tour Tips

Bergler Tower West Face

Difficulty: 4+, one section rated 5-
Elevation Gain: 140 m
Climbing Route: 154 m
Rope lengths: 4
Time: 2½ - 3 hours
Rock: good, excellent in the upper section, needs a bit of cleaning
Equipment: Standard alpine rack + a few pitons

Approach
There are two common ways to reach the start of the route:
From Weißlahnbad (Tiers, 1200 m): From the Nature Park House, follow marked trail No. 3 into the Tschamin Valley (Tschamintal). Continue along the forest road to the valley station of the material ropeway (Grasleitenhütte, 2,134 m). From there, head south up the blocky gully toward Sattelspitze. At the top, traverse left across the alpine meadows to the start of the route. Time required: approx. 2.5 hours.
From Grasleiten Refuge (2,134 m): Follow the path toward the Tschamin Valley for a short distance until reaching the Tschamin stream bed. Climb up the left wall via a chimney (Grade 2) and traverse right along the adjacent grassy ledge via a chamois trail into the Kleine Valbontal. Continue right along hunter's paths to the Große Valbontal, then head across the meadows to the start of the route. Time required: approx. 1 hr 45 min.
Route Characteristics
The route is characterized by two pitches of sustained difficulty. While loose rock must still be expected in the lower section, the route's finale offers solid, top-quality rock.
Descent
From the summit, head back west for about 60 m to a cairn. Descend south across ledges and a down-sloping ramp (Grade 1–2) to the meadow below. Here, traverse left (guided by cairns) along the ledges to the notch. Descend through the western gully, which shortly leads back to the base of the climb. Time required: approx. 40 min.
Tip: Alpine climbing routes require experience in route-finding and placing self-protection. Pay attention to current weather conditions and local rock quality.

Vajolet Towers, Delago Tower, Piáz Arete (Southwest Ridge)

Difficulty: 4, one section rated 4+
Elevation Gain: 130 m
Climbing Route: 156 m
Rope lengths: 6
Time: 2½ hours
Rock: excellent climbing on the final pitch
Equipment: Standard alpine rack

Route Profile
A classic, highly popular climb. The arête offers exceptionally exposed climbing that is physically forgiving, but psychologically intense due to the sheer exposure. Because of the high volume of climbers, key hand- and footholds are polished slick.
Approach
From the Gartlhütte mountain hut (2,621 m):
Follow the clearly visible path towards the towers. Once you reach the terrace in front of the prominent gully between the Delago and Stabeler towers, descend into the gully. Traverse briefly left at its lowest point, then ascend via a ramp to the right to reach the start of the route. Approach time: approx. 20 min.
Descent (Rappel Route) The descent is via the equipped rappelling/abseiling route: From the summit: Keep right (east). The first two rappels are 15 m and 18 m. Intermediate station: You reach the jammed block in the notch between the Delago and Stabeler towers. In the gully: From here, rappel four times heading south: 20 m, 20 m, 20 m, and finally 25 m.
Descent:
Downclimb the last few meters easily (grade UIAA 1) to the gully and return to the terrace. Variation with 50 m double ropes: From the first rappel anchor, you can rappel directly to the jammed block, and from there make full-length rappels straight down the gully.
Time required: approx. 50 min.
Tip: Due to the route’s extreme popularity, an early start or climbing off-peak is recommended to avoid delays at belay stations and rockfall hazards in the descent gully.

Laurin Wall, Eisenstecken Route (West Face)

Difficulty: 5+, a section rated 5 (also A0)
Elevation Gain: 350 m
Climbing Route: 373 m
Rope lengths: 11
Time: 3½ - 4 hours
Rock: superb, clean action on the last 3 pitches
Equipment: Standard alpine rack + cams Nr. 3-4

Route Profile
A highly rewarding and correspondingly popular route. The climbing is varied, offering steep sections on solid Dolomite rock. As the route is very popular, please be mindful of teams behind you at the belay stations.
Approach
From the Kölner Hütte refuge (2,339 m):
Follow the marked approach path for the Santner Pass via ferrata. Cross a long, wide scree ledge. Before the via ferrata steepens over the first rock ramps, branch left onto a path. Follow this path along the base of the west faces until reaching the start of the route. Approach time: approx. 50 min.
Descent
From the exit of the route, simply traverse to the nearby Santnerpasshütte refuge (2,734 m). From there, descend via the secured Santner Pass via ferrata back to the Kölner Hütte.
Descent time: approx. 1.5 hrs.
Tip: Since the route faces west, the sun does not hit the wall until around midday. Keep this in mind when planning your schedule (and choosing your clothing).

Grasleiten Tower South Face – Direct Route (East Peak)

Difficulty: 3 -4, a section rated 4+
Elevation Gain: 350 m
Climbing Route: 409 m
Rope lengths: 11
Time: 4 - 4½ hours
Rock: good, to clean
Equipment: Standard alpine rack + medium cams + a few pitons

Approach
From the Grasleiten mountain hut (2134 m): The start of the route is quickly reached from the hut. Head up the steep meadow opposite and climb through a gully (grade UIAA 3) onto a wide grassy ledge. Follow this to the left until you reach the start of the climb. Approach time: approx. 20 min.
Descent (Complex terrain)
The descent from Grasleiten Tower is demanding and requires surefootedness as well as good route-finding skills in mixed terrain (rock/grass): Summit section: Downclimb approximately 15 m from the summit along the west ridge (grade 1–2) to a notch. Rappel 15 m from there. Upper face: Traverse left via a ramp (north side), then downclimb through a gully and another ramp to the right until reaching the main notch (sections of grade 1–2–3). Central gully: Follow the gully southeast (grade 1–2, sections of 3) and rappel 12 m. Bypass: Bypass the following drops by descending to the left (grade 2–3) and traverse back into the main gully (sections of 3). Final rappels: When the gully becomes too steep, briefly downclimb along the exposed wall on the left (grade 3). From here, execute three 22 m rappels.
Descent: Via a wide ledge, a final gully (grade 3), and easy grassy ledges back to the hut. Time required: approx. 2 hrs
Route Profile
A rewarding tour for alpinists who place less emphasis on consistent difficulty and more on a varied line. Due to the time-consuming descent, good time management is essential.

Laurinswand – Buratti Route (West Face)

Difficulty: 5 + A0
Elevation Gain: 450 m
Climbing Route: 495 m
Rope lengths: 18
Time: 5-6 hours
Rock: good
Equipment: Standard alpine rack + cam size 3 + a few pitons

Route Profile
A demanding wall climb that requires good stamina and solid experience in route-finding. The climbing is varied and offers classic Dolomite rock in impressive surroundings.
Approach
From the Kölner mountain hut (2339 m): Follow the approach path to the Santner Pass via ferrata. Traverse the prominent, long scree ledge. Before the via ferrata ascends into the rocks and ramps, branch left onto a trail. Follow the path below the west faces to the start of the Buratti route. Time required: approx. 1 hr
Descent
The descent is relatively quick, heading east: From the notch, descend into the eastern gully. Bypass the first rock drop by downclimbing on the left side (grade 3). Then traverse back into the gully. Traverse right along the first ledge (grade 1) and ascend to the Santner Pass Hut in a few minutes. Time required: approx. 20 min.
Tips for the tour
Time Management: 18 rope pitches are time-consuming. An early start is recommended, even if the face only gets the sun late in the day. Navigation: In the middle section of the wall, a good eye for the route line is crucial. Descent: From the Santnerpass Refuge, the return route to the Kölner Hütte follows the standard via ferrata (plan for an additional 1–1.5 hours).

Vajolet Towers East Tower - Marina Route (East Face)

Difficulty: 3-4, one section rated 4+
Elevation Gain: 200 m
Climbing Route: 211 m
Rope lengths: 8
Time : 3 hours
Rock: good for clearing scree from ledges
Equipment: Standard alpine rack + Cams Nr. 2 + a few pitons

Route Profile
An interesting route in a high-alpine environment. Important note: The crux is extremely narrow and awkward—it is strongly recommended to climb this section without a backpack (haul it up afterwards if necessary) to avoid getting stuck.
Approach
From the Vajolet and Preuss Huts, 2,243 m: Follow path No. 584 towards the Grasleiten Pass. At the first grassy flat, turn left and follow the trail (cairns) that ascends in switchbacks across the scree field. Ascend to the uppermost scree slope until you reach the start of a prominent gully below the east face. Climb up the gully on the right (grade 1–2) and follow the cairns up to the base of the route. Time required: approx. 1 hour 15 minutes
Descent
The descent requires confident climbing and abseiling in mixed alpine terrain: From the summit: Follow the north ridge for approx. 15 m, abseil 15 m through a prominent rock hole (abseil anchor), and then downclimb through gullies. East notch (Ostscharte): After approx. 40 m, you reach the east notch (grade 2+). Abseil point: Take the right gully (pitons present, short grade 3 section) and abseil 5 m onto a ledge. Traverse: Traverse left on the ledge for approx. 30 m to the "Große Scharte" (Great Notch).
Return route: ollow the cairns southwards until you reach the start of the route again. Time required: approx. 50 minutes to the base of the route (approx. 2 hours total back to the huts).
Tip: As the route often has scree on the ledges, extra caution is advised to avoid dislodging rocks onto climbing parties below.

Rosengartenspitze Standard Route (West Gully and North Ridge)

Difficulty: 3, The first few meters 3+
Elevation Gain: 200 m
Climbing Route: 344 m
Rope lengths: 10 + 55m on a short rope
Time: 2 hours
Rock: excellent
Equipment: Standard alpine rack

Route Profile
A classic and frequently climbed route. The climb is split into the technically more demanding West Gully and the enjoyable North Ridge. From the so-called Normalwegscharte (standard route notch), climbing is usually done on a short rope with occasional intermediate protection up to the summit.
Approach
From the Santnerpass Refuge (2,734 m): Head across the scree slopes directly toward the west face. The base of the route is located at the foot of the prominent gully. Time required: approx. 10 minutes.
Descent
The descent requires full concentration and confident rope handling: From the summit: Downclimb along the ridge back to the Normalwegscharte (on a short rope). Traverse: Traverse the east slope for approx. 100 m (grade 1), then turn left. Exposed ledge: Follow an exposed ledge for approx. 15 m to an abseil anchor. Abseil point: Abseil 15 m here and downclimb via the long ramp (keeping left, grade 1–2) back to the ascent gully. Gully system: Abseil twice for 20 m in the gully (the bolted belays from the ascent can be used for this).
Return route: Return to the Santnerpass Refuge in a matter of minutes. Zeitaufwand: ca. 1,5 Std.
Tip: Due to the route's high popularity, rockfall caused by parties climbing above is a real factor in the West Gully. An early start pays off twice over here!

Rosengartenspitze – Piaz/Delago Route (West Chimney)

Difficulty: 4+
Elevation Gain: 160 m
Climbing Route: 165 m
Rope lengths: 6
Time: 2 - 2½ hours
Rock: good, to clean the second-to-last pitch
Equipment: Standard alpine rack + Cams Nr.3

Route Profile
A very rewarding grade IV climb. Because the route leads through a chimney in the west face, it remains shady and damp for a long time. Important note: In low temperatures or after heavy rainfall, the climb is not recommended due to cold conditions and potential dampness in the chimney.
Approach
From the Santner Pass Hut (2,734 m): Head directly across the scree fields toward the west face of the Rosengartenspitze. Traverse right below the face until reaching a ledge (belay possible on a prominent thread/hourglass anchor). The start of the route is located immediately before the distinct crack/gully. Time required: approx. 15 min. (Also accessible from the Gartl Hut or the Kölner Hut via Santner Pass.)
Descent
After topping out on the route, there are two options: Summit option: Ascend to the main summit over easy terrain (grade 1–2) in approx. 20 min. Direct descent: Return to the hut via the descent variation of the Normal Route (see description there). Time required: approx. 1 hr 10 min to the Santnerpass Hut.
Tip: Combining this route on the ascent with the Normal Route on the descent makes for a very balanced and rewarding half-day tour on the Rosengartenspitze.

Rotwand - Eisenstecken Route (West Face)

Difficulty: 5
Elevation Gain: 270 m
Climbing Route: 294 m + 200 m to the via ferrata
Rope lengths: 10 + 200 m to the via ferrata
Time: 4½ - 5 hours
Rock: good, some sections moderate
Equipment: Standard alpine rack + Cams Nr.3-3,5 + 8 Express slings

Route Profile
A route of two halves: The first four pitches demand power and technique in chimneys and cracks. After that, the wall opens up into glorious slab climbing. Crucial note: Due to the chimneys and the west-facing aspect, this route should only be attempted in strictly dry conditions.
Approach
From the Paolina Hut (2,125 m): Follow marked trails No. 552 and No. 551 toward the Vajolon Pass (2,560 m). Shortly before reaching the pass, directly below the west face, turn right. Ascend over scree for a few minutes to reach the start of the route. Time required: approx. 1 hr.
Descent
The descent follows the North Ridge via ferrata: From the final belay: Follow a horizontal ledge for approx. 200 m to the left (north) (grade 1–2). Via Ferrata: Join the Rotwand via ferrata and follow it downhill to the Vajolon Pass.
Gully descent: Descend from the pass via trail No. 551 (through the prominent gully on the left) until you reach the base of the west face again.
Return route: Return to the Paolina Hut via the same route. Time required: approx. 45 min.
Tip: The Eisenstecken Route is a true highlight for lovers of classic lines. Anyone who manages a clean run through the chimney section will be rewarded with the finest Dolomite rock in the upper third.

Western Sattelspitze Northwest Face

Difficulty: 6
Elevation Gain: 450 m
Climbing Route: 482 m + 100 m
Rope lengths: 15 + 100 m on a short rope
Time: 5 hours
Rock: good, to clean
Equipment: Standard alpine rack + a complete set of nuts + medium cams

Route Profile
A magnificent wall climb that stands out for its steepness and exposed setting. The climbing is technically demanding and requires a confident handling of mobile protection.
Approach
From the Grasleiten Mountain Hut (2,134 m): Follow marked trail No. 3a upward. Just before a wire-cable-secured section, a path branches off to the right. Descend via this path to the valley floor and traverse to the base of the climb in a few minutes. Approach time: approx. 15 min. (Alternatively also accessible from the Grasleitenpass Hut.)
Descent (Demanding)
The descent is complex and should on no account be underestimated: Ridge Section: Return from the summit eastwards to the notch (downclimbing grade 2–3). Continue along the ridge to its lowest point. Traverse: Traverse the entire west flank approximately 20 m below the ridge crest (to the east) until reaching the broad saddle between the two main peaks (follow cairns, grade 1–2, sections up to 3). Östliche Sattelspitze: Traverse the south slope of the Östliche Sattelspitze via ledges (ups and downs / counter-climbs and descents, grade 1–2) to the notch before the Tschaminspitzen. Gully Descent: Descend through the broad gully leading east into the Großen Valbontal valley and traverse back to the base of the climb.
Tip: Gully Descent: Descend through the broad gully leading east into the Großen Valbontal valley and traverse back to the base of the climb.

Vajolet Towers, Stabeler Tower – Normal Route (Southeast Face)

Difficulty: 4-
Elevation Gain: 145 m
Climbing Route: 187 m
Rope lengths: 7
Time: 2½ hours
Rock: excellent
Equipment: Standard alpine rack

Approach
From the Gartl Hut (2,621 m): Ascend the clearly visible path toward the towers. At the terrace in front of the prominent gully (between the Delago and Stabeler towers), enter the gully. Follow a ledge for approx. 60 m to the right. The base of the climb is located at the start of the first ramp leading up to the left. Approach time: approx. 20 min.
Descent (Rappel route)
The descent requires precise rope management, as it leads via several steps into the notch: From the summit: Abseil 10 m northwards from the belay anchor into a gully. Abseil step: Abseil another 25 m (cemented bolts) to a ledge. Traverse: Walk horizontally westwards (left) on the ledge for approx. 8 m. Descent to the notch: Descend via a gully ramp for 15 m to the next ledge and follow it southwards for 8 m until reaching the jammed block in the notch between the Stabeler and Delago towers. Gully descent: From here, abseil four times down through the gully (heading south): 20 m, 20 m, 20 m, and finally 25 m. Exit / Finish: Downclimb the last few meters easily (grade 1) to the gully and back to the terrace. Descent time: approx. 50 min.
Tips for the tour
Polishing / Polish: The key sections (short walls and chimneys) are polished/greasy. Chalk and precise footwork help immensely here. Combination: Experienced rope teams often combine the Stabeler Tower with the Piaz Arête on the Delago Tower or the Winkler Tower for a link-up (enchainement). Weather: Since the gully acts as a natural funnel during rappelling/abseiling, you should retreat early if a thunderstorm approaches.

Teufelswand Grand Pillar (Southeast)

Difficulty: 4-
Elevation Gain: 160 m
Climbing Route: 198 m
Rope lengths: 8
Time: 2½ - 3 hours
Rock: excellent
Equipment: Standard alpine rack

Route Profile
A classic pleasure route that is frequently climbed due to its popularity. The climbing is varied, leading over pillar structures and slabs. Because the route has a southeast orientation, it usually dries early and offers pleasant temperatures.
Approach
The approach leads through the spectacular "window" of the Fensterleturm: From the Paolina Hut (2,125 m): Take trails No. 539 and 549 to the Rotwand Hut (2,280 m). Toward Masaré: Follow the trail toward the Fensterleturm (Torre Finestra / Masaré via ferrata). Through the Window: Ascend at the junction to the Fensterleturm and climb through the prominent rock gap (the window) via the secured trail (wire cables). Base of the Wall: Traverse the basin behind it, ascending slightly across the meadows until reaching the start of the route at the pillar. Approach time: approx. 1 hr 50 min (approx. 50 min from the Rotwand Hut).
Descent
The descent follows the normal route of the Teufelswand: Ridge traverse: From the summit, follow the trail traces along the ridge in a northerly direction (east side) Downclimbing: Downclimb to the saddle between the Teufelswand and the Fensterleturm (grade 1–2).
Return route: From the saddle, follow the marked trail to the right (southeast) into the basin below the Fensterleturm. Rock fissure: At the junction, turn left (east) and downclimb back through the secured fissure at the Fensterleturm. Valley trail: Descend via the familiar approach trail back to the Rotwand Hut or Paolina Hut. Time required: approx. 1 hr 10 min to the Rotwand Hut.
Tip: Anyone with energy left after the Grand Pillar can seamlessly integrate the Masaré via ferrata into the tour, as the paths intersect near the Fensterleturm.

Östliche Valbonspitze Valbon Arete (Northwest)

Difficulty: 4
Elevation Gain: 400 m
Climbing Route: 475 m
Rope lengths: 14
Time: 4 hours
Rock: good, Scree field
Equipment: Standard alpine rack + medium Cams

Route Profile
A classic ridge climb that captivates with its length and wild surroundings. Due to the 14 pitches, maintaining a steady rhythm is crucial. The rock quality is good in the climbing sections, but caution regarding rockfall is required in the scree-covered passages.
Approach
From the Grasleiten Hut (2,169 m): Follow marked trail no. 3a uphill. Shortly before a cable-secured section, a path branches off to the right. Descend via this path to the valley floor and traverse to the start of the route in a few minutes. Time required: approx. 15 min. (Alternatively also accessible from the Grasleitenpass Hut.)
Descent (Demanding)
The descent is time-consuming and requires reliable orientation: Ridge traverse: From the final belay, follow the long ridge eastwards (initially grade 1–2) for about 30 minutes until reaching a large rock pinnacle. Abseil south: From here, make two 20 m rappels heading south. Traverse: Turn east again, ascend about 2 m via a ledge, and traverse another 10 m. Final notch: Rappel another 25 m and downclimb the last 4 m (grade 2) to reach the large scree notch.
Return route: Scree-slide or descend roughly 200 m down the eastern talus couloir into the Grasleiten basin. Follow the marked path left (north) back to Grasleiten Hut. Time required: approx. 1 hr 45 min
Tip: Do not underestimate the length of the tour. Even though the technical difficulty remains moderate, the 14 pitches and complex descent demand good time management, especially when fatigue sets in during the afternoon.

Vajolet Towers, Winkler Tower – Winkler Crack (South Face and East Face)

Difficulty: 4+, the Original Crack 4
Elevation Gain: 140 m
Climbing Route: 226 m
Rope lengths: 9
Time: 2½ hours
Rock: excellent
Equipment: Standard alpine rack

Route Profile
A historic tour that thrills every alpinist. The crux on the Winkler Crack requires clean technique. Because the footholds and handholds have been polished smooth over the decades, the pitch often feels harder than the straightforward fourth grade would suggest.
Approach
From the Gartlhütte (2,621 m): Follow the path towards the towers. Enter the gully from the terrace in front of the gully between Delagoturm and Stabelerturm. Follow the ledge to the right for about 60 m (passing beneath the wall of Stabelerturm). The start of the route is located at the beginning of the first ramp that leads up to the left (identical to the approach for the Stabelerturm normal route). Time required: approx. 20 min
Descent (Rappel route)
The descent follows the central rappel route of the Vajolet Towers: From the summit: Rappel 10 m north into a gully from the belay bolt. Rappel step: Rappel another 25 m via cemented bolts to a ledge. Traverse: Traverse roughly 8 m horizontally west (left) along the ledge. To the notch: Descend 15 m down a gully ramp to the next ledge, then follow it 8 m south to the jammed block between Stabelerturm and Delagoturm. Gully rappels: From here, make four rappels south down the gully: 20 m, 20 m, 20 m, and 25 m. Exit: Downclimb the last few meters easily (grade 1) to the gully and back to the terrace. Time required: approx. 50 min.
Tip: Anyone climbing the Winkler Tower often aims to traverse all three Vajolet Towers. Since the approach is identical for both the Stabeler and Winkler Towers, these two peaks can easily be combined...